Matt Stein Models
Sikorsky HSS / HUS / H-34
SeaBat / SeaHorse / Choctaw
Construction/Completion Tips
Complete the aircraft (any variant) in the steps below, proceeding
from those most stressful on the casting through those which (as a
general rule) are progressively more delicate/intricate.
1. TAIL FOLD
As desired, fold the tail per the following:
At the
base of the tail (peduncle), locate the pre-scored tail fold-line,
running vertically on the right side of the casting. Continue scoring
in this groove, using a scribing tool - the back (blunt) edge of an
X-acto #11-type knife (though shown cutting), or use a razor saw - to
cut completely through. Rotate the tail horizontally180º and
reattach to the right side, as shown; its butt end flush with that of
the fuselage.
=> IMPROVED VERSIONS (with landing gear already molded-in), skip to Step 3, below. <=
2. LANDING GEAR
Complete landing gear as follows:
Examine
the casting to note landing gear attachment points; numbered 1-4, at
left; hollow out the tiny socket at Point 3 as needed (particularly if
degraded/lost by folding the tail), using a narrow-blade knife (X-acto
#11); to accept ~0.010"-diameter plastic rod or stretched sprue -
~1/4-inch long, extending forward and down onto the tip of the
tooth-like tail gear door at Point 4. Once secured, chop of the excess
just a hair beyond/below Point 4, and use the "Glue Drop" method to form a tiny tailwheel, ~0.025" in diameter.
On each side, note a main gear locator cuff - at Point 1, on the
cheek just below the cockpit - and the lower attachment notch at Point
2, in the apex of the molded-in lower arms; hollow out both as needed;
to accept a ~0.015" diameter plastic rod or stretched sprue - ~1/2-inch
long - butting under the cuff and straight down and splaying outward
through the notch; at symmetrical angles on both sides, as shown at
right. Trim the excess ~0.075" past the lower attachment, also as
shown (right; bottom-left), and use a variation on the "Glue Drop" method
to swage a wheel ~0.05" in diameter, as shown at lower right. Do this
by compressing the (styrene) glue-softened tip lengthwise (straight
arrow), using the flat side of a chisel (or knife, spatula, etc.) as
shown, and then maintaining steady pressure while rotating it upwards
(curved/broken arrow), as indicated. If necessary, re-soften the wheel
by re-dipping in the glue and compress/flatten from the side to produce
a round, vertical wheel, centered on the apex of all three struts.
3: It is recommended at this point to PAINT and DECAL the aircraft.
4: ROTOR BLADES
As a last step (apart from touchup), attach rotor blades as follows:
For the
main rotor, make blades from ~0.03"-wide by ~0.01"-thick strips of
brass or plastic bar; each ~0.53" long. If depicting the blades
extended (upper left) but at rest, pre-bend each very slightly
downward, as indicated, and pre-paint these lower faces before
attachment. Encircling the rotor hub, locate the four stepped tabs
(top-left; vertical arrow); for extended rotors, glue the underside of
each tip down level onto the tab, as shown; the top ending up flush
with the hub center. For folded blades, rotate each (axially) 90º
and glue its underside - now its inner side - flat onto the vertical
end of the tab; angling the blade downward toward the back, as shown.
Make tail rotor blades out of ~0.0175"-wide by ~0.01"-thick strips
of brass or plastic bar, each ~0.10" long, and secure to tabs on the
tail hub as shown (horizontal arrow); similar to those on the main hub,
but much smaller. Alternatively, a suitably-sized 4-bladed
photo-etched brass or molded plastic prop may be used, if available
(though this may require trimming/removing the hub centerpost). Note
the tail rotor blades on this aircraft do not fold.
Touchup-paint any spot(s) as needed, to complete the aircraft.
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Copyright ©2009 Matthew M. Stein
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